"Doubles" and Osaka Castle

Reading: The Historian, Elizabeth Kostova
Listening: "Carry Me Home," The Furze

Friday, August 24

Shortly after Chris arrived, Grace appeared in the parking lot with Mike, my new neighbor. I served iced water and aonori senbei (from Shikoku) as we relaxed on my tatami introducing ourselves. For dinner, we chose Vino, a nearby Italian restaurant. Delish, but not quite comparable to Osteria Dell 'Arancio.

I had the pasta set for 2000円.

Vino's tray of assorted appetizers. I love the crisp bruschetta and fresh ceviche, but unfortunately, the selection never changes.

No picture of my clam and mizuna pasta since I ate before thinking.

Thankfully, the dessert sampler changes by the evening. Today's set was a refreshing "orange jelly" (in the ramekin), fluffy tiramisu, and smooth green tea ice cream topped with a thin langue de chat-ish cookie. Not quite perfect matching, but individually good.

Oh yes, and Mike seems like he will be a nice neighbor.

Saturday, August 25
In celebration of Amber's birthday (Happy Birthday Chick), Chris and I left home early for Osaka. We made our way to Planet Station, an art education center (?) for the Kansai International Film Festival, a small showing of independent films done in and/or about Japan.

Three brain-globes--with cherubs crawling from between the folds--adorned the front entrance. Creepy.

We were early for the first showing and shared a snack of yakisoba at the small shop downstairs. I followed that with a cone of アイスクリン Kochi-style, a happy find!

Our film choice of the day was a documentary called "Doubles" (1995), which features the stories of half-Japanese, half-American children. Though Japanese often refer to such children as ハーフ (literally "half"), a somewhat derogatory term, the film emphasizes that these individuals are not halves, but in fact "doubles," possessing double the culture in their blood. Most of the interviewees--many the offspring of American soldiers stationed in Japan following World War II--describe encountering discrimination because they are not full Japanese. One woman cries on camera, remembering how as a child, strangers laughed and threw rocks at her Caucasian appearance. Stories of the mistreatment of those of mixed heritage sound unreal to me, having grown up in Hawaii, where having a multitude of ethnic backgrounds is considered beautiful. In fact, I often felt plain and unremarkable coming from a single ethnicity. (Hawaii is mentioned in the film as a social utopia for mixed children.) The final statement of the film, of course, remarks that mixed children are the key to a peaceful world.

Since coming to Japan, my ethnicity has become particularly challenging to me. Though "Doubles" was filmed quite awhile back, the same issues of race continue today, despite the increase in foreign interaction and despite the increase in the "doubles" population. The Japanese still discriminate based on odd conceptions of who is "Japanese" and who is not. Heavy debate continues among my co-workers and students over the degree to which I appear Japanese. Many are convinced that I "look American," despite my protestations that an all encompassing "American look" does not exist. (I assume that they mean I look part-Caucasian.) Of course, these co-workers and students know that I am a foreigner. Does their knowledge of my nationality affect their perception of my ethnic appearances? Most Japanese, upon first meeting me, immediately assume that I am a fellow native! My foreign given name, of course, causes confusion. On a visit to the doctor, I heard women whisper loudly to one another when my name was called. クリスティン？ヘ～？でも日本人かな。「和田」と言った。I have been criticized when I did not know a certain word or custom. I should, shouldn't I, being "Japanese"? (I often sadly find myself having to explain that I am an American.) On the upside, foreigners are impressed by my excellent English skills. Yes, race affects everyone in this country, and it's sad how much hasn't changed.

Following the film, we headed for nearby 大阪城 (Osaka Castle). Chris hates this one, but I had never seen it, so we set off through the hot, cicada-filled grounds.

These trees remind me of ice cream tops.

I didn't mind the castle, though it was packed with sweaty tourists (myself included). The majority of the visitors belonged to large Chinese tour groups.

Chris and I shared a refreshing カキ氷 at a bench behind a series of three cutouts. From our seats, we couldn't identify the cutouts. I dashed to the front with my camera and told Chris to pick one cutout at random. I nearly fell over laughing as he unknowingly chose this one of the stylish woman in the pink kimono over the strong warrior figure.

Following the heat of the castle, we visited Yodobashi Camera, where we played with new cell phones and signed me up for Internet. Yes, I have lived an entire year without Internet at home. My access to the world should arrive within a month or so.

The Umeda Yodobashi building is an amazing complex of shopping and dining. We found dinner at a dimly lit restaurant called Kurama. I ate the hayashi rice and shrimp meal. Hayashi rice is a rich, curry-like creation of beef, onions, and mushrooms in a red-wine/tomato sauce. This one was paired with a thin layer of egg over hot flavored rice.

Before leaving Osaka, we picked up drinks from Seijo Ishii, the station foreign foods market. If a juicy peach and a delicate rose made a baby, that beautiful child would be the Snapple Peach and Rose Iced Tea. Perfection in a PET bottle. (Even better than Fauchon Peach Tea, perhaps.) If only Snapple were sold everywhere here.


Sunday, August 26
We indulged in a late wakeup today, though I took the chance to do a bit of cleaning before Chris finally rolled out of bed. We ate lunch at Gusto and rented movies at Tsutaya before heading home for more housecleaning. At least, I housecleaned. At some point in my toilet/bathtub/sink scrubbing, vacuuming, laundry, and dusting, Chris fell asleep again.

Poor guy must have been exhausted because he didn't wake up until I finished working out at 5:30 pm. By then he was ready for the evening, and we stopped by the home center for batteries and a shoe rack. I oohed over the latest selection of overpriced わんこ and にゃんこ--I fell in love with a fluffy gray kitten who mewed shyly at me--before Chris dragged me away. We picked up groceries at Co-op, and I made teriyaki chicken and fresh veggies for dinner, which we ate over The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift, the perfect dinner movie. After showers and shoe rack building, we ate melon ice creams over うどん (Udon), a Japanese comedy about the search for perfect noodles. (Sounds like Tampopo, eh?) Unfortunately, we turned to bed before the film finished, and I had to return it to Tsutaya this morning.

I am now back at work, dreading the end of summer vacation and the return of naughty children.